Pandharpur Wari –
A Walking Pilgrimage
to Pandharpur
Experience, Guidance & Tips
from an IIT Engineer
Author
Deepak Phadnis
B. Tech. (Chemical Engineering)
IIT Delhi
Preface
Where else, on the earth, will you find God, standing
eagerly, waiting for you?
‘Pandharpur
Payee Wari’, a walking pilgrimage to Pandharpur! It’s a wonderful journey,
enjoyed by the devotees, who dance and sing, while walking all the way to
Pandharpur from Alandi. There is only one desire in every devotee’s (called warkari)
heart, “I want to meet the Lord Vitthal at Pandharpur”.
Many
foreigners and students of social sciences have joined the wari, just to see
and experience the joy of the journey. Many people in the well educated class, dream
of joining the wari. But, they do not know what to expect in the arduous
walking pilgrimage of almost 20 days, how to prepare, how to join and where.
So, the dream remains unfulfilled.
This is
an effort to make that information and guidance available to them. It is from
my own journey in the wari. I have added several photographs that speak more
than the words!! They are unique, because they have been taken by a warkari,
walking in the wari! You will get find a true feel of the wari life in them.
I hope the
aspirant reader will get charged, and the join wari to complete a lifetime
ambition. I also hope to let the whole
world know about this sacred pilgrimage.
The
curious reader may read, the seeker of joy of travelling may visit and the
seeker of peace, happiness and God may come and join the ‘Pandharpur Payee Wari!’
Where else, on the earth, will you find God, standing eagerly,
waiting for you?
Introduction
‘Pandharpur
Wari’ is an annual pilgrimage (Yatra) to Pandharpur – in honor of the Lord
Vitthal, who is a child form of Lord Krishna. Palakhis (palanquins) carrying
padukas (silver sandals) of many saints are carried from their shrines to
Pandharpur by devotees of Lord Vitthal. They walk hundreds of miles, dancing
and singing all the way to the Lord. A ‘warkari’ is anyone who walks in the
wari. The main waris are those of ‘Saint Dnyaneshwara’ starting from Alandi (in
Maharashtra) and of ‘Saint Tukaram’ starting from Dehu to the Pandharpur
temple. The total walk is 230 - 240 kms.!
The
wari is distinct from all other forms of pilgrimages in many ways. It is a
collective form of Bhakti (devotional worship) and a microcosm of vast sects,
castes and trades. Men, women, young and old, even disabled ones, from all
walks of life and with all socio-economic strata walk alongside each other. The
sweetest thing about the wari is that every warkari walks with the firm belief
that the Lord Vitthal is waiting for him in the temple, standing on a brick,
with His resting on his waist.
The
wari tradition originated in the thirteenth century, when Saint Dynaneshwara’s
grandfather Tryambakpant Kulkarni used to walk froom his native place Apegaon
to Pandharpur. Saints Dnyaneshwar, Namdev, Sawata
Mali, Chokha Mela and Tukaram used to participate in the wari during
lifetime.
The
tradition of the present ‘Palkhi Sohala’ (meaning festival of wari) was started
by Saint Tukaram’s son ‘Taponidhi Marayan Maharaj Dehurkar. The number of
people in the wari keeps increasing daily as it progresses to Pandharpur. By
the time it reaches Pandharpur, the number increases to about 8 to 10 lakhs
(800,000 to 1,000,000).
There
is a sect named ‘Warkari Sampradaya’ consisting of people who are devotees of
Lord Vishnu. They walk to Pandharpur every year. But, the wari transcends all
sects. Millions of persons in Maharashtra and neighbouring states like Goa,
Karnataka and Andhra Pradesh, have dreams of walking to Pandharpur in the wari.
The
journey of the ‘Saint Dnyaneshwara Palakhi’ from Alandi to Pnadharpur takes 18
days. The warkaris wear holy basil beads, carry ‘Taal’ (cymbals) in their hands
and sing chants of Vithoba (Vitthal), abhangas and sing ‘Gynaba Tukaram’, the
names of the two saints. On reaching Pandharpur on Ashadh Ekadashi (eleventh
day of the bright fortnight of the Hindu month Ashadh), the devotees take a
holy bath in the holy river Chandrabhaga (also called Bhima) and then proceed
to take darshan (glimse) of the Lord Vittthal and Mother Rukmini (Rakhumai,
meaning mother Rukmini).
The
scriptures say that because of the tremendous rush on these festival Ekadashi
days, even if a devotee takes darshan of the dome (kalas) of the temple, the
devotee attains Moksha (Liberation) instantly. So, most of the warkaris walk
around the temple to complete on ‘Pradakshina’ (perambulation), take a glimpse
of the dome and their wari is complete. They return home with a heavy heart,
eager to go again in the wari next year!
Our 'Pandharpur Wari' was a lifetime experience! Full of joy,
love, devotion, excitement, entertainment and learning!! All the days of
walking in the wari were very enjoyable, what with a huge ocean of people walking,
playing instruments and chanting "Dnyanoba Mauli Tukaram". There was
the rhythm of Mridanga (drum) and Taal (cymbals) which really made walking
tireless. The spirit of the whole wari is 'Walking to meet God!. With a
firm conviction that the God is ardently waiting for me and to bless me'!
There was a huge ocean of ‘warkaris’ (persons walking in the
wari). Excitement was overflowing from their faces! There were beautiful
horses, a nicely decorated chariot and people in white and multi colored
dresses, all around us, right up to the horizon! The length of the whole
procession was more than five kms.!
I walked all the way from Pune to Pandharpur in the 2015 wari,
with my friends. I was amazed that I could do it. If I could, others too can do
it. That gave me this idea to narrate my sweet experience.
I would like to start with a brief description of the
composition of the wari.
The main wari comprises of
1. Nagarakhana,
2. Mauli Ashwa (Saint Dnyaneshwara’s horses),
3. 'Manachya Dindya' (the ‘Dindis’ of honour)
4. The Mauli Rath and
5. Hundreds of ‘Dindis’ walking behind the chariot.
A ‘Dindi’ is a unit of warkaris, brought together by an
organizer who is the owner of the dindi. Each dindi comprised of anything from fifty
to one thousand warkaris. The total number of dindis exceeded 400!
The Wari procession begins with a Nagarkhana, which symbolically
announces the saint’s arrival. It is a nicely decorated cart, playing the sound
of Nagara (a kind of big drum).
The Nagarakhana is followed by the two 'Maulinche Ashwa' (horses
belonging to Saint Dnyaneshwara). These are two very beautiful horses which
take part in the Ringan (event of Formations). They are white, very beautiful
and look royal! Most appealing were their eyes! Lovely and loving! I have never
seen before, so much love, exuding from the eyes of a horse!! There were two of
them, walking one behind another. It is believed that the decorated horse in
front carries Saint Dnyaneshwara Mauli on its back. It is received with
reverence and its forehead is touched by devotees to express respect and
gratitude towards Mauli (Saint Dnyaneshwara is lovingly called ‘Mauli’, meaning
mother). Large masses of people from the nearby places thronged to touch the
horses. Not even once did the horses rebel or avoid the touch!! Oh, they are so
cute!! We used to see them many times during our daily walk and their sight was
so pleasing!
Close on heels is the second horse with a rider carrying the
Shitole Sarkar’s ‘Jaripataka’ (golden pennon). Shitole Sarkar was a ‘Sardar’
(chieftain or military commander) in the Gwalior Court who granted patronage to
the ‘Wari Sohala’ (Wari festival) in the year 1831. The patronage was in the
form of horses, elephants, tents, ‘Prasad’ (daily offerings to the God) and
‘Jaripataka’. Even today the tradition continues, except the elephant.
Behind the horses walked 27 ‘Dindis’ (called 'Manachya Dindya'
or the privileged dindis). They have certain privileges during the Ringan
program and on other few occasions.
Then came the 'Mauli Rath', a silver laden beautiful chariot
pulled by two very strong and beautiful bullocks. The bullocks were very beautiful.
Their horns were nicely decorated. The chariot carries a ‘Palkhi’ (a silver
cladded Palanquin) in which are kept the 'Paduka' (silver sandals) of Mauli. The
‘Mauli Rath’ was the most graceful part of the wari! The presence of the rath
is so graceful and soothing to the eyes! We would keep watching it again and
again whenever it came near us. We were completely mesmerized.
The whole Wari draws inspiration from the Mauli Rath. People
from all communities on the route flocked to touch the ‘Paduka’ and pay their
tributes to Mauli. Every warkari believes that whatever be the difficulties -
rain, wind or heat, Mauli is with them. She protects them and gives them
strength.
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To read further...
PHOTOS
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| Author - Deepak Phadnis |
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| The Sacred Horse - Mauli Ashwa |
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| The Main Chariot - Mauli Rath |
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| The Main Chariot - Mauli Rath |
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| Warkaris in a dindi |
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| Wari climbing Dive Ghat before Saswad |
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| Wari climbing Dive Ghat before Saswad |
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| Happy sight of Mauli Rath! |
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| Vinekari - A warkari with Tanpura |
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| Gurunath Bharne and Seema in Dive Ghat |
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| Woman carrying a load on head |
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| Worker women who cheered us up! |
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| Worker women who cheered us up! |
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| Woman with Tulasi plant on head |
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| Near river - Paduka Snan place |
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| Warkari couple taking rest |
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| Workers rest while the clothes are drying |
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| Deepak, Naik and Gurunath |
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| Torch seller |
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| Guru, Deepak and Seema |
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| Warkaris having lunch in field |
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| Deepak with 'Ubhe Gandh' on forehead |
Thi
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| Gurunath Bharne - My Goan friend from Holland and Seema |
Hope I have given a a good number of pictures from my own wari. Some of these have been taken by my friend Guru. I will be glad to get your feedback on both the book to be published and these photos.
If anyone is interested in walking to Pandharpur with the wari I would be very happy to provide more information. You can reach me by e-mail on deepxama@yahoo.co.in.
If anyone is interested in walking to Pandharpur with the wari I would be very happy to provide more information. You can reach me by e-mail on deepxama@yahoo.co.in.
Thanks.
God bless you.
Deepak
Govind Phadnis.
More
detailed information is available at the following websites:
- http://www.maulialandi.com/en/biography.aspx
- http://www.warisantanchi.com/english/vaishishte2.html
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| Seema Bharne against background of the Nagara |
Your comments are welcome!
ReplyDeleteIf anyone would like to join the walking pilgrimage (Pandharpur Payee Wari) I will be glad to guide.
ReplyDeleteThis comment has been removed by the author.
ReplyDeleteDear Sir,
ReplyDeleteI have read your book, thanks for sharing your experience and information.
I am living in UK, doctor by profession planning to go for wari this year.
Please guide me.
I would like to know how to register for Dindhi you have mentioned in your book but I could not find any contact details to do that.
Regards
Bhavana